Those of you who have been reading this blog for a while probably gathered that our two closest friends in Praia are Kelly and Ná Furtado. What you may not know is that after they were married this past May they decided to start their marriage and life together in America. Boo for us. Big time.
But instead of dwelling on how they abandoned us, I'll focus on our fantastic weekend in Ná's hometown of Pedra Badejo, about 40 minutes from Praia in the mountains along the coast. Referred to as the “fora” because it is in the interior of the island, this town maintains a much more traditional way of life than in Praia.
This was not our first visit to Pedra Badejo, and Ná's family welcomed us back with open arms. We started at Grandma's house where Ná grew up. The family was busy cooking katxupa, which is a delicious stew of beans, fresh corn, various meats and vegetables. Somehow we did not get the message that this katxupa was for us, so we set off to eat a HUGE and delicious lunch of other Cape Verdean specialities like feijoada (another bean stew, but somehow completely different than katxupa), grilled fish, chicken, and of course rice and french fries. Then to aid digestion we happily took a long walk around the small town. It's long because Ná is like the mayor having to stop and shake hands with and talk to everyone he knows, which is everyone in town. Stopping back by Grandma's house on the way out of town, our stomaches still COMPLETLEY stuffed from lunch, we chowed down on the fresh and delicious katxupa anyway. I mean, we didn't want to be rude. The guys also indulged in a little grogue, the local liquor made from sugar cane.
After a night out for the guys and night in for the ladies, we awoke early at our great hotel to panoramic views of the sea and a black sand beach. After breakfast we headed out with Ná's Uncle and five brothers to a coconut grove, which was a highlight for all of us. It was strikingly beautiful and GREEN after all the rain this summer. Ná's brothers, all of whom are almost as handsome and nice as Ná, led us into this orchard where one promptly climbed up a fresh palm tree knocking out many coconuts. Then they took turns chopping open the coconuts with a machete and we each enjoyed the fresh coconut water and coconut flesh out amongst the trees.
But do you know who loves the fora the most? Strela! She got to eat and drink whatever she wanted and roamed around free with all new smells. She was in HEAVEN.
*Footnote: Furtado translates directly to the word “stolen” from Portuguese and Kriolu so we often refer to Kelly and Ná as the “Stolens.”
Thursday, November 18, 2010
History in the Making?
My TACV flight back from Boston reminded me of what was in store for me the weekend I returned home. Referred to as “History in the Making,” on October 30th Akon, a Senegalese pop-star famous in the States, was coming to do a concert. Half of his entourage including his brother was on my airplane and I have to say all the big headphones, encrusted Rolexes and Louis Vuitton luggage did give me pause as people do not normally roll like that in Cape Verde.
Mike had secured us and our “team” of Kelly and Ná, Carrie and Derek VIP tickets from the Embassy. So we got all “buzz off” (Cape Verdean Kriolu for the Yiddish “faputzed” or “all dressed up”) took a few shots and headed out on Saturday night for the main event. Now I didn't really think I knew who Akon was or as Derek puts it, “everyone's favorite monotone popstar.” but turns out I knew almost every song and all the words that go along with them. Hm, I guess I have to thank Hot 99.5 in Washington, DC for that?
In this blog, I can not do two things justice: 1. What a big deal this was for Cape Verdeans & 2. How much freaking fun we had.
Rumor on the street was that this concert was the biggest thing that has happened in Cape Verde SINCE INDEPENDENCE. Yes, that is right, since Cape Verde won a war, freeing themselves of Portuguese rule and establishing an independent nation. That and Akon are the two biggest things that have happened here since 1975. For how much fun was had, I will have to refer you to our pictures. We were drinking warm beer and jumping up and down dancing like teenagers. See, I told you I couldn't do it justice.
The highlight of Akon's set, can you call it that especially if he was lip-syncing the whole time? Anyway the highlight of his set was the song, Right Now (Na, Na, Na), that we dedicated to Ná, while singing on the top of our lungs.
Mike had secured us and our “team” of Kelly and Ná, Carrie and Derek VIP tickets from the Embassy. So we got all “buzz off” (Cape Verdean Kriolu for the Yiddish “faputzed” or “all dressed up”) took a few shots and headed out on Saturday night for the main event. Now I didn't really think I knew who Akon was or as Derek puts it, “everyone's favorite monotone popstar.” but turns out I knew almost every song and all the words that go along with them. Hm, I guess I have to thank Hot 99.5 in Washington, DC for that?
In this blog, I can not do two things justice: 1. What a big deal this was for Cape Verdeans & 2. How much freaking fun we had.
Rumor on the street was that this concert was the biggest thing that has happened in Cape Verde SINCE INDEPENDENCE. Yes, that is right, since Cape Verde won a war, freeing themselves of Portuguese rule and establishing an independent nation. That and Akon are the two biggest things that have happened here since 1975. For how much fun was had, I will have to refer you to our pictures. We were drinking warm beer and jumping up and down dancing like teenagers. See, I told you I couldn't do it justice.
The highlight of Akon's set, can you call it that especially if he was lip-syncing the whole time? Anyway the highlight of his set was the song, Right Now (Na, Na, Na), that we dedicated to Ná, while singing on the top of our lungs.
Friday, November 12, 2010
By now, EVERYONE has heard of Cape Verde.
Our whirlwind tour of the USA is complete and we are back in Praia. I made a lot of promises to update the blog when I returned so I am happy to report that I am back. We had a fantastic trip Stateside and saw a whole lot of our very large country (any country is large after living in Cape Verde). In one month, I was in Florida, NJ, NY, DC, Arizona, and Minnesota! Since you all do not read the blog to hear of our adventures in America, I will not revisit the highlights, of which there were way too many to count.
At one point Mike and I realized we were actually visiting on official business from the Cape Verde Department of Tourism. Everyone wanted to know when they could come visit that I should have made up brochures. Our personal presentations must have been enticing enough, because we did score a few new visitors for the coming months, and have had some interest from past visitors on a second trip. Check out our revised visitor schedule- you know you want your name up there!
Mike and I thought that on that note, you should all know that Cape Verde has been in the news lately as quite the prestigious destination. Many of you have asked what we would do when you get here. Well, until I have my brochure ready, these articles can whet your appetite.
First, Cape Verde scored number THREE in Lonely Planet's top 10 destinations to visit in 2011. Who knew?! Having been to #1 (and not having any idea why you would go there unless you are a huge fan of Cheers, like Mike) and #2 (which maybe you are saving until we- fingers crossed- end up there some day?), I can tell you starting at #3 is not such a bad idea. This article from The Independent also shows off some of the diversity of the different islands and is available as reading material in our guest room as well.
Our American friends that stayed with Strela during our jaunt in the States (and did a phenomenal job training her as well, phew) named our home the Ralles Resort and Spa. So please let me know when you want to book your reservation!
All the best from Praia and more of our adventures to come!
At one point Mike and I realized we were actually visiting on official business from the Cape Verde Department of Tourism. Everyone wanted to know when they could come visit that I should have made up brochures. Our personal presentations must have been enticing enough, because we did score a few new visitors for the coming months, and have had some interest from past visitors on a second trip. Check out our revised visitor schedule- you know you want your name up there!
Mike and I thought that on that note, you should all know that Cape Verde has been in the news lately as quite the prestigious destination. Many of you have asked what we would do when you get here. Well, until I have my brochure ready, these articles can whet your appetite.
First, Cape Verde scored number THREE in Lonely Planet's top 10 destinations to visit in 2011. Who knew?! Having been to #1 (and not having any idea why you would go there unless you are a huge fan of Cheers, like Mike) and #2 (which maybe you are saving until we- fingers crossed- end up there some day?), I can tell you starting at #3 is not such a bad idea. This article from The Independent also shows off some of the diversity of the different islands and is available as reading material in our guest room as well.
Our American friends that stayed with Strela during our jaunt in the States (and did a phenomenal job training her as well, phew) named our home the Ralles Resort and Spa. So please let me know when you want to book your reservation!
All the best from Praia and more of our adventures to come!
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Hurricane Danielle heads west, Hurricane Dog remains here
“According to AccuWeather.com Tropical Expert Dan Kottlowski, Danielle is a fairly classic Cape Verde storm, which is one that originates near the Cape Verde Islands. Typically, Cape Verde storms have a good chance of developing into major hurricanes due to their long paths over warm waters and minimal interaction with land.”
While we did experience quite a bit of heavy rain this past Saturday morning (complete with thunder and lightening rousing even me out of bed around 4:30 am), you would never know this information living here in Cape Verde. Cape Verdean Hurricane Danielle could be the biggest hurricane of the season in the Caribbean and Florida (right now a Category 2). Though it really has very little to do with Cape Verde, it is the most news-worthy information out of the islands this week. Ah, island living.
In other news, we are dog-sitting which has created quite the hurricane in the Ralles household. Our friends Paola and Ivan found themselves in a pinch this weekend, with plans to head out on a long weekend vacay and no one to take care of Filippa, their own Cape Verdean mutt a few months older than Strela. With good Karma as motivation, we took in Filippa Friday afternoon and it has been non-stop action for the two pups ever since. At first it was fantastic having Filippa around for Strela as they kept themselves busy playing and running around our garden out front. But hours upon hours of play, the two puppies were clearly exhausted but unwilling to rest. Forced separation has helped encourage relaxation, but now it is Tuesday and Strela is showing signs she is ready to go back to being an only child. Up until now, she has played a happy host, allowing Filippa to take her toys, eat and drink out of her bowls, and even sit with Mike and me. But just as I was writing this, Filippa took Strela's prized rawhide. Teeth were bared, growling began and the claws came out...literally. Luckily they decided to fight right beneath my desk chair so the confrontation was quickly split up, and the dogs were sent to their corners. We will welcome back Paola and Ivan with open arms this evening when they come to get Filippa, but are happy we were able to help out.
As the rain keeps falling on Praia, we will monitor Hurricane Danielle while cleaning up after Hurricane Dog. See below satellite footage of Danielle's beginnings out here. Much love from a few rocks in the middle of the Atlantic!
While we did experience quite a bit of heavy rain this past Saturday morning (complete with thunder and lightening rousing even me out of bed around 4:30 am), you would never know this information living here in Cape Verde. Cape Verdean Hurricane Danielle could be the biggest hurricane of the season in the Caribbean and Florida (right now a Category 2). Though it really has very little to do with Cape Verde, it is the most news-worthy information out of the islands this week. Ah, island living.
In other news, we are dog-sitting which has created quite the hurricane in the Ralles household. Our friends Paola and Ivan found themselves in a pinch this weekend, with plans to head out on a long weekend vacay and no one to take care of Filippa, their own Cape Verdean mutt a few months older than Strela. With good Karma as motivation, we took in Filippa Friday afternoon and it has been non-stop action for the two pups ever since. At first it was fantastic having Filippa around for Strela as they kept themselves busy playing and running around our garden out front. But hours upon hours of play, the two puppies were clearly exhausted but unwilling to rest. Forced separation has helped encourage relaxation, but now it is Tuesday and Strela is showing signs she is ready to go back to being an only child. Up until now, she has played a happy host, allowing Filippa to take her toys, eat and drink out of her bowls, and even sit with Mike and me. But just as I was writing this, Filippa took Strela's prized rawhide. Teeth were bared, growling began and the claws came out...literally. Luckily they decided to fight right beneath my desk chair so the confrontation was quickly split up, and the dogs were sent to their corners. We will welcome back Paola and Ivan with open arms this evening when they come to get Filippa, but are happy we were able to help out.
As the rain keeps falling on Praia, we will monitor Hurricane Danielle while cleaning up after Hurricane Dog. See below satellite footage of Danielle's beginnings out here. Much love from a few rocks in the middle of the Atlantic!
Saturday, August 14, 2010
The Rains Hath Come!
August marks the beginning of the rainy season in Cape Verde. Our friend Kelly, who is from the notoriously rainy Seattle/Tacoma area questions the phrase “rainy season” in so far as in two weeks, this has including one day of downpours and one cloudy day of showers. To put this in perspective, let's look at some statistics:
The whole concept of rain in Cape Verde (or lack there of) is met with a great deal of emotion. Water, a most important natural resource, is so sorely lacking that rain is met with celebration not only in the streets but particularly on the farms. This time of year produce is getting scarcer and more expensive at the markets. The less rain that comes only heightens the community's anxiety for another year without crops. Cape Verde is always worried about the onset of drought that historically can last up to 5 years. In the 20th century alone some 200,000 islanders perished amid drought, causing a diaspora of nearly 500,000 (same as the nation's current population) to flee to Europe and North America.
On the flip side, rain brings with it mosquitoes and disease. Last year there was a Dengue Fever outbreak for the first time in many years (note: South Florida is tracking cases of Dengue as well. So Moms, don't worry too much!). The Cape Verdean government and medical resources met this challenge with great success according to international disease control experts. After last year's experience, the country is trying to be even more proactive in disease prevention and mosquito control. For example, in June there was a day off of work for “Dengue Clean-Up” to ensure areas around the house prevent standing water from accumulating for mosquito breeding. Never mind that this day was also the day that Portugal played Brazil in the World Cup. Coincidence? I don't think so.
No matter what season, the weather in Cape Verde can not be beat. Mild humidity makes the strong sun much more tolerable than summer in Washington, DC. Though Mike is constantly sweating, when is he not, it is really easy to be happy when you wake everyday to a blue and an ocean view to match!
- Cape Verde receives 261 mm (10.3 inches) of annual rainfall classifying the country as a “semi-desert."
- A desert is defined by receiving less than 250 mm (9.8 inches) of rain annually, SO CLOSE!
- Seattle receives 940 mm (37.1 inches) of rain each year
- This surprisingly pales in comparison to NYC receiving 1,140 mm (45 inches- 28 of which is due to snow) and Miami at 1,420 mm (55.9 inches)
The whole concept of rain in Cape Verde (or lack there of) is met with a great deal of emotion. Water, a most important natural resource, is so sorely lacking that rain is met with celebration not only in the streets but particularly on the farms. This time of year produce is getting scarcer and more expensive at the markets. The less rain that comes only heightens the community's anxiety for another year without crops. Cape Verde is always worried about the onset of drought that historically can last up to 5 years. In the 20th century alone some 200,000 islanders perished amid drought, causing a diaspora of nearly 500,000 (same as the nation's current population) to flee to Europe and North America.
On the flip side, rain brings with it mosquitoes and disease. Last year there was a Dengue Fever outbreak for the first time in many years (note: South Florida is tracking cases of Dengue as well. So Moms, don't worry too much!). The Cape Verdean government and medical resources met this challenge with great success according to international disease control experts. After last year's experience, the country is trying to be even more proactive in disease prevention and mosquito control. For example, in June there was a day off of work for “Dengue Clean-Up” to ensure areas around the house prevent standing water from accumulating for mosquito breeding. Never mind that this day was also the day that Portugal played Brazil in the World Cup. Coincidence? I don't think so.
No matter what season, the weather in Cape Verde can not be beat. Mild humidity makes the strong sun much more tolerable than summer in Washington, DC. Though Mike is constantly sweating, when is he not, it is really easy to be happy when you wake everyday to a blue and an ocean view to match!
Thursday, August 12, 2010
Jeep not for sale...yet
It has come to our attention, over and over in fact, that our 2000 Jeep Wrangler is quite popular in Cape Verde. We have received multiple offers to buy the Jeep already and we still need to drive it for at least 17 more months (who's counting?).
One Sunday in May we arrived to our parked, forest-green Wrangler sporting its tan hard top (soft top to come after the rainy season) and there was a note on the windshield. It said and I quote:
Dear Lady, Dear Sir,
Would you mind giving us a call, in regard to the price of your nice Wrangler...
Yours cordially. I'd be thankful.
We would have jumped on this opportunity in the States but we already have an interested buyer (or three) from the Embassy community. In Cape Verde cars do not depreciate in value. Furthermore people list cars as NEW when they are 15 years old! The US government has a rule that we can only sell our car for what we paid for it, effectively to avoid ripping off the local consumer in the developing world. Good call, US, because it seems that we could sell this car for a fortune to the highest bidder!
A few weeks ago I was driving along, enjoying teeny-bopper music from my i-Pod (Mike installed a new stereo with i-Pod hook-up). Up ahead I noticed a group of handsome men (all the men in Cape Verde are pretty much handsome) in the back of a pick-up truck (all the men in Cape Verde pretty much ride in the back of pick-up trucks). They were smiling, chatting, and looking over my way, when I realized, that they were flirting with the JEEP! It became obvious as they started pointing at things, maybe the fog lights and the wheels, I don't know! I would have thought I was crazy if it didn't happen again TODAY!
I am not letting these incidents get my self-esteem down, because the Jeep is the coolest and most perfect car for the cobblestone streets and dirt roads of Cape Verde. Plus I have FINALLY learned to drive stick shift, and can honestly say it has finally taken. I can even get up the hill to our our house, no problem.
But all in all, the best part about the Jeep is that it was my idea! Half 4-wheel drive, half convertible...perfect for a tropical paradise.
So head on over for your tour of the island of Santiago because the Jeep will get you anywhere you need to go!
One Sunday in May we arrived to our parked, forest-green Wrangler sporting its tan hard top (soft top to come after the rainy season) and there was a note on the windshield. It said and I quote:
Dear Lady, Dear Sir,
Would you mind giving us a call, in regard to the price of your nice Wrangler...
Yours cordially. I'd be thankful.
We would have jumped on this opportunity in the States but we already have an interested buyer (or three) from the Embassy community. In Cape Verde cars do not depreciate in value. Furthermore people list cars as NEW when they are 15 years old! The US government has a rule that we can only sell our car for what we paid for it, effectively to avoid ripping off the local consumer in the developing world. Good call, US, because it seems that we could sell this car for a fortune to the highest bidder!
A few weeks ago I was driving along, enjoying teeny-bopper music from my i-Pod (Mike installed a new stereo with i-Pod hook-up). Up ahead I noticed a group of handsome men (all the men in Cape Verde are pretty much handsome) in the back of a pick-up truck (all the men in Cape Verde pretty much ride in the back of pick-up trucks). They were smiling, chatting, and looking over my way, when I realized, that they were flirting with the JEEP! It became obvious as they started pointing at things, maybe the fog lights and the wheels, I don't know! I would have thought I was crazy if it didn't happen again TODAY!
I am not letting these incidents get my self-esteem down, because the Jeep is the coolest and most perfect car for the cobblestone streets and dirt roads of Cape Verde. Plus I have FINALLY learned to drive stick shift, and can honestly say it has finally taken. I can even get up the hill to our our house, no problem.
But all in all, the best part about the Jeep is that it was my idea! Half 4-wheel drive, half convertible...perfect for a tropical paradise.
So head on over for your tour of the island of Santiago because the Jeep will get you anywhere you need to go!
Thursday, August 5, 2010
Basketball without Borders
Watching kids play basketball with NBA and WNBA players... barefoot. Donating basketballs to a local center for at-risk children. Eating lunch with the Cape Verdean National Basketball Team (they took THIRD in the African Championship in '07, believe it or not). Meeting and discussing the USA and sports with the President of Cape Verde. These were the situations I found myself in the past few days and I loved it.
This week my faith in professional athletes was restored. The NBA, and their Basketball without Borders program, sent a small delegation to Cape Verde as a Sports Envoy to run clinics with kids from three different areas of Santiago, the island where we live. Mike has been working on this program of sports diplomacy for months now and dedicated time and resources to make sure that it went off without a hitch. Congratulations to Mike because not only was the visit a huge success but it was a BLAST!
The visiting delegation was comprised of Brooks Meek, VP of International Operations for the NBA, Willie James Green, Jr.- currently playing for the Philadelphia 76ers- and his brand spanking new wife Terrah (they got married July 4th), Nykesha Sales- former WNBA player from the Connecticut Suns and the franchise's all time leading scorer- and her good friend Keia Howell.
The first day Mike spent with the athletes, he came home and asked me, “Do you know why I am NOT a professional athlete?” I had to bite my tongue to not say the many things that came to mind (just kidding, Mike). He then told me that after 11 hours of travel around the island, running these clinics for hours in the hot sun, the players were getting back to their hotels to fit in a workout before dinner. Obviously staying in shape is their full time job, but it is inspirational to be around people who are so dedicated and so passionate about their work. This passion also came through in their work in Cape Verde. No matter how hot the courts were, how bumpy the cobblestone road was, how long the tour of an unfinished stadium went on, this group touted smiles, regaled us with hilarious stories and had a sincere appreciation of this wild ride on our rock in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean.
Arriving well in the wee hours of Saturday night and staying on until early Wednesday morning, we packed so much into the short visit that this blog post would be way too long to be enjoyable. I am having a really hard time putting into words how awesome this experience was, but posted photos on Flickr for you to see for yourself.
Thanks to Brooks, Nykesha, Keia, Willie, Terrah...AND MIKE for making this one of my best weeks in Cape Verde yet!
For local press coverage (to see Mike on TV!) click on the links below:
http://rtc.cv/tcv/index.php?paginas=13&id_cod=4694
http://rtc.cv/tcv/index.php?paginas=13&id_cod=4740
This week my faith in professional athletes was restored. The NBA, and their Basketball without Borders program, sent a small delegation to Cape Verde as a Sports Envoy to run clinics with kids from three different areas of Santiago, the island where we live. Mike has been working on this program of sports diplomacy for months now and dedicated time and resources to make sure that it went off without a hitch. Congratulations to Mike because not only was the visit a huge success but it was a BLAST!
The visiting delegation was comprised of Brooks Meek, VP of International Operations for the NBA, Willie James Green, Jr.- currently playing for the Philadelphia 76ers- and his brand spanking new wife Terrah (they got married July 4th), Nykesha Sales- former WNBA player from the Connecticut Suns and the franchise's all time leading scorer- and her good friend Keia Howell.
The first day Mike spent with the athletes, he came home and asked me, “Do you know why I am NOT a professional athlete?” I had to bite my tongue to not say the many things that came to mind (just kidding, Mike). He then told me that after 11 hours of travel around the island, running these clinics for hours in the hot sun, the players were getting back to their hotels to fit in a workout before dinner. Obviously staying in shape is their full time job, but it is inspirational to be around people who are so dedicated and so passionate about their work. This passion also came through in their work in Cape Verde. No matter how hot the courts were, how bumpy the cobblestone road was, how long the tour of an unfinished stadium went on, this group touted smiles, regaled us with hilarious stories and had a sincere appreciation of this wild ride on our rock in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean.
Arriving well in the wee hours of Saturday night and staying on until early Wednesday morning, we packed so much into the short visit that this blog post would be way too long to be enjoyable. I am having a really hard time putting into words how awesome this experience was, but posted photos on Flickr for you to see for yourself.
Thanks to Brooks, Nykesha, Keia, Willie, Terrah...AND MIKE for making this one of my best weeks in Cape Verde yet!
For local press coverage (to see Mike on TV!) click on the links below:
http://rtc.cv/tcv/index.php?paginas=13&id_cod=4694
http://rtc.cv/tcv/index.php?paginas=13&id_cod=4740
Tuesday, July 27, 2010
Mailing address?
The care packages for The Ralles Adventure abound in Cape Verde, most often sent by our mothers, followed by our close, personal friends at Amazon.com. We are privileged to have the use of the “diplomatic pouch” for our mailing needs and desires. This means that packages are sent to a Virginia mailing address and forwarded on to us for no additional cost. Typically we receive packages within two weeks to a month, barring any major issues. There are some size and weight limitations and contents can not contain liquids, batteries, aerosol, or plant matter (this one we learned the hard way by trying to ship our Obama Chia Pet). These limitations, however, are overshadowed by the feeling we get opening a box containing tortilla chips, Girl Scout cookies, or in my case adorable plastic dishes especially for Pool Fridays.
My mom and Aunt Jane were musing about ways to send us contraband items, like my hair conditioner, and asked if they could just send it to my Cape Verdean “mailing address.” I replied, “What mailing address?” It is true, we have no address. In fact, I have no idea what street I live on. Cape Verde does have a postal system, but there is no traditional mail carrier service. If you want mail, you have to go to the post office and rent a mailbox for an annual fee. Mail is very inconsistent, like other public services in the developing world. For example, our friend Kelly has not yet received her Christmas present from her family but her husband Ná has been sporting his Seattle soccer jersey since January. The gifts were either sent separately, or Kelly's parents like Ná more, the jury is out.
This concept of no address truly baffled my mom and aunt and so they asked, “If people want to come to your home, how do you tell them where you live?” Well, I tell them I live in Terra Branca, our neighborhood. At the circle (and they would just know which one I am referring to), I instruct them to turn up the hill where the sign points to Terra Branca, then make a right at the pink building and the first left at the building with blue trim. Stay to the right and I live in the house with the green door. Hilarious aside: As I was typing the cable people called and needed directions to the house, which I communicated in my poor Kriolu, and guess what? Even they could find me.
Another question was from Aunt Jane, “So if you were going to call a taxi, what would you tell them?” Well, I have only called a taxi one time since living in our new house, to go to the airport when Rachel Sher and I caught our early flight to Sal, another island. Again, in my terrible Kriolu, I described where I lived. The cab driver, Pepa, was very excited because he too lives in Terra Branca. He wanted to be sure he knew where I was so came over on foot that very evening, knocked on the door, and enthusiastically said he would be at that very spot the next morning at 4:30 am.
I guess I have learned two things from writing this blog post: 1. Street names, largely unimportant. But maybe that is because this city is about the size of my college campus. 2. My terrible Kriolu is not that terrible if people seem to find me just fine.
When you all come visit, we will make the 11 minute trip to the airport and will not force you to find your way around a town void of street names. See you soon!
My mom and Aunt Jane were musing about ways to send us contraband items, like my hair conditioner, and asked if they could just send it to my Cape Verdean “mailing address.” I replied, “What mailing address?” It is true, we have no address. In fact, I have no idea what street I live on. Cape Verde does have a postal system, but there is no traditional mail carrier service. If you want mail, you have to go to the post office and rent a mailbox for an annual fee. Mail is very inconsistent, like other public services in the developing world. For example, our friend Kelly has not yet received her Christmas present from her family but her husband Ná has been sporting his Seattle soccer jersey since January. The gifts were either sent separately, or Kelly's parents like Ná more, the jury is out.
This concept of no address truly baffled my mom and aunt and so they asked, “If people want to come to your home, how do you tell them where you live?” Well, I tell them I live in Terra Branca, our neighborhood. At the circle (and they would just know which one I am referring to), I instruct them to turn up the hill where the sign points to Terra Branca, then make a right at the pink building and the first left at the building with blue trim. Stay to the right and I live in the house with the green door. Hilarious aside: As I was typing the cable people called and needed directions to the house, which I communicated in my poor Kriolu, and guess what? Even they could find me.
Another question was from Aunt Jane, “So if you were going to call a taxi, what would you tell them?” Well, I have only called a taxi one time since living in our new house, to go to the airport when Rachel Sher and I caught our early flight to Sal, another island. Again, in my terrible Kriolu, I described where I lived. The cab driver, Pepa, was very excited because he too lives in Terra Branca. He wanted to be sure he knew where I was so came over on foot that very evening, knocked on the door, and enthusiastically said he would be at that very spot the next morning at 4:30 am.
I guess I have learned two things from writing this blog post: 1. Street names, largely unimportant. But maybe that is because this city is about the size of my college campus. 2. My terrible Kriolu is not that terrible if people seem to find me just fine.
When you all come visit, we will make the 11 minute trip to the airport and will not force you to find your way around a town void of street names. See you soon!
Saturday, July 24, 2010
Ka tem luz? Tem luz!
Typical little Saturday. Up early with the dog, sadly with Strela there is no more sleeping in for us. Short little walk around the block to get Strela to “do her business,” thanks for the line, Paul and Bekah. A quick stop at the new grocery store in the neighborhood that is located just steps away from our house, a fantastic and life changing addition, still not one-stop shopping but MUCH more convenient. Walk out of there with $10 worth of LOX, lox you say? I know! Smoked salmon is a new arrival on the shelf this week. Mike cleans the pool for a possible Saturday swim, our empregada only works 5 days a week, people. And I start up the Ralles Family Diner for breakfast, no breakfast joints here as we would think of them and the main dish is Cachupa, typical Cape Verdean bean and meat stew that is refried and served with a fried egg and sausage, a delicious option but this lack of variety has us cooking up a storm on Saturday and Sunday mornings. After attempting to poach eggs, with total and utter failure, we dine on a delicious alternative to Eggs Benedict, fresh rolls layered with cream cheese, the smoked salmon, and scrambled eggs. When I found out how to make Hollandaise sauce, I decided against using even more eggs and butter, thus reinforcing why I would much rather dine out for breakfast in oblivion.
Now Mike has headed off to get some work done on the Jeep, Strela is napping on the cold tile floor, and two cups of coffee later, I am feeling even more chatty than normal.
A milestone event did occur this week. We got a generator! Power in Cape Verde is generated using diesel fuel: inefficient, über expensive, environmentally unfriendly...and completely unreliable. In fact, I think Mike's only phrase in Kriolu is, “Ka tem luz,” meaning “don't have lights” or as we would say, the power is out. Living in our temporary apartment, we did not have an alternative power source and it was not unusual for the power to go out about two to three times a week for as little an hour or up to 6-8 hours at a time. One of the most enticing parts of moving to our “permanent” home was that the Embassy provides all residences with a generator. After two months of living here without one, and continued power outages, this week the promise was fulfilled and the generator was installed. It must be a man thing, but Mike is drooling over this generator and its engine. As a woman, I find the new blue and white generator to be...cute? See Flickr photos of the new addition to our family!
I have to say, the concept of electricity being generated somewhere far away and traveling to my home still eludes me. I guess the American in me may always take this somewhat for granted. However, living here has definitely provided a fresh perspective and appreciation, especially when you drive through the “fora” or interior and come the realization that electricity has not even made its way there yet.
Bottom line: Mom and Dad, we certainly do not “have shares in public service” so thank you for all of your lessons on conserving electricity.
Want to visit a developing country, but live with the amenities of the United States? Visit us and our cute generator in Cape Verde!
Now Mike has headed off to get some work done on the Jeep, Strela is napping on the cold tile floor, and two cups of coffee later, I am feeling even more chatty than normal.
A milestone event did occur this week. We got a generator! Power in Cape Verde is generated using diesel fuel: inefficient, über expensive, environmentally unfriendly...and completely unreliable. In fact, I think Mike's only phrase in Kriolu is, “Ka tem luz,” meaning “don't have lights” or as we would say, the power is out. Living in our temporary apartment, we did not have an alternative power source and it was not unusual for the power to go out about two to three times a week for as little an hour or up to 6-8 hours at a time. One of the most enticing parts of moving to our “permanent” home was that the Embassy provides all residences with a generator. After two months of living here without one, and continued power outages, this week the promise was fulfilled and the generator was installed. It must be a man thing, but Mike is drooling over this generator and its engine. As a woman, I find the new blue and white generator to be...cute? See Flickr photos of the new addition to our family!
I have to say, the concept of electricity being generated somewhere far away and traveling to my home still eludes me. I guess the American in me may always take this somewhat for granted. However, living here has definitely provided a fresh perspective and appreciation, especially when you drive through the “fora” or interior and come the realization that electricity has not even made its way there yet.
Bottom line: Mom and Dad, we certainly do not “have shares in public service” so thank you for all of your lessons on conserving electricity.
Want to visit a developing country, but live with the amenities of the United States? Visit us and our cute generator in Cape Verde!
Monday, July 19, 2010
Social life- socialites?
When we found out we were moving to a rock in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean last February, Mike and I savored all of our time in DC and beyond to be with friends and family as much as possible. We would often say to each other, “We should go out tonight, because next year, it is just going to be us on a desert island!” My sister told us we were crazy to think that we wouldn't make any friends or have things to do. If you ask her when the last time she and I were able to track down a time to chat, she would say she told me so.
So what are we up to? Well, when we are not dining with the Mayor of the second biggest city on the Island with our Ambassador, we may be having the Ambassador from Luxembourg and his family over for a morning swim and Bloody Mary's. We have been seen at the Russian Embassy for a cocktail party, elbow to elbow with the Russian Ambassador as well as many officials from the Cape Verdean government. When Mike comes home from work and I ask about his day, he mentions his meetings with the First Lady of Cape Verde or the owner of the private (and only) bus service, rumored to be the wealthiest man in the country. Then we sit down in front of the television to watch the news in which Mike will inevitably make an appearance in about once a week. Click on the link below to view a clip where he was interviewed and did the whole thing off the cuff in Portuguese...well done!
http://rtc.cv/tcv/index.php?paginas=13&id_cod=2962
http://rtc.cv/tcv/index.php?paginas=13&id_cod=2962
One of our favorite Cape Verde evenings was hosted by a couple from the Netherlands, Franz and Hanneke (pronounced Hannukah :)). He is the #2 at the United Nations in Cape Verde and they live in a ultra-modern chic home right on the ocean with a gorgeous indoor/outdoor open floor plan. We entered to a beautiful buffet of gourmet cheeses, vegetables, and appetizers that I did not know could exist here. A local Spanish restauranteur was barbequing different meats and vegetables for tapas. Besides eating, drinking, and enjoying the view into oblivion, the evening was set up for Franz and Hanneke's friends who are musicians visiting from Holland. Throughout the night they played beautiful European classical music on the flute and piano. Franz and Hanneke also invited a famous Cape Verdean singer and other local musicians to share Cape Verdean music accompanied by guitar. The Foreign Minister of Cape Verde was there, the CEO of the largest telecom company was in attendance, as well as the Resident Director of the United Nations. We began to wonder how we got this invite!
I would not say that we are important by any means, but we can see how it is easy to feel that way in such a small place. No matter what, some of the best parts of the first six months have been meeting people who have converged, here in Cape Verde of all places, from all over the world, and sharing this experience with them. To date we have friends from Belgium, Italy, Portugal, Nigeria, Spain, France, Mexico, Sweden, Japan, Poland, Holland, Luxembourg, Australia, and England, just to mention the ones that come to mind at the moment.
We have also been fortunate to forge wonderful friendships with local Cape Verdeans, particularly the ones who work at the Embassy, who have opened up their homes to us. In February we were invited to the mountains for Mike's colleague Maria's birthday party that also featured fabulous food and music. One Friday night, we spent the evening eating a home-cooked Portuguese meal and playing Wii with Andrade and his family. And this past Saturday we went to the Fora, or interior, for a pig roast at Filomeno's family's home with a large group of Embassy folk. Again the day would not be complete without the famous food and music duo.
Mike would like me to specifically point out that just because we are busy here and enjoying ourselves doesn't mean that we miss everyone at home every day. So please come visit and keep in touch!
Thursday, July 15, 2010
Same, same, but different.
When I (Rachel) went back to the United States for a short visit in April, I found myself loving certain things about America that were absent in Cape Verde. Of course friends and family topped the list, but I was thinking more along the lines of...
My Blackberry. I am not an investment banker or lawyer who needs to be tied to my job with a Blackberry, but life is so easy when you can get and respond to emails anywhere you want. Of course I hate to admit that checking Facebook was as high on my list as chatting with friends through Blackberry Messenger. Make fun of me, but I love it.
Chipotle. Not a week goes by where Mike and I do not long for Chipotle. We are not picky about what we would get there, we just want Chipotle. All. The. Time. That or any meal that is "fast casual."
Stores. I alao hate to admit that much of my time in America was spent shopping. While my mom and I enjoyed shopping to be sure that I am the most fashionable person in Cape Verde, I also found myself making several trips to Target, Costco, and now I have added Petco to the list. There is absolutely nothing even close in Praia.
English. I think it goes without saying that I would much rather speak English any day.
Television. Keeping up to date on shows was not only something I would do, but considering we had two TiVos in U.S. I think I can fairly say that Mike misses TV as well. Then again, I think we miss our nightly ritual of Jeopardy and the News Hour most, but admitting that just makes me a complete nerd.
Upon return to Cape Verde in early May, much to my surprise, I found there were many things I liked about living here. Our new friends here of course topped that list, but I was thinking more along the lines of...
No Blackberry. I barely use my cell phone at all. Not to mention I have to recharge it with credit (saldo) once every couple weeks, which means there is many a day where I have no saldo and can't make a phone call or text worth anything. Do I even notice it is missing? Not at all. Liberating.
No Chipotle or fast casual. Mike and I eat fresh, healthy meals each and every day. Many more cooked by me everyday! While at restaurants it may take us an hour to get our food, it is a comfort to know that much of the food is “organic” without preservatives and chemicals. We fill up on fish, meats, rice, and vegetables. The only problem is, there remains a presence of french fries and pizza, which means I have not lost a pound.
No stores means no errands! With the exception of grocery shopping (which as I have mentioned can take me all day), Mike and I do not find ourselves running about on weekends to get all the errands at Costco and Target done so we would be set for the week. Nothing to buy, means time spent lounging at the pool or beach. And don't worry we still spend plenty of money trying to get anything we want online.
Kriolu. The language of Cape Verde. Wish I could say I liked it more, but every day gets a little better. I can certainly navigate my daily life which is an improvement.
Television. Well, I am still a TV junkie. In fact during the World Cup, we had 2 TVs in our living room, as Cape Verdean cable only works on Cape Verdean TVs, of which our brand new beautiful TV (Thanks, Meri and Ted!) is not. I actually began to like soccer, just a little. Mike and I have recently found ourselves CRAZY about Mad Men and I have been entertaining myself with the first season of Friends (not that funny) and old Sex and the City seasons (still hilarious). So I guess TV is something I will continue to like all over the world.
Bottom line. Turns out the things I love most about America are things I appreciate most about our different life here. Every day is certainly an adventure, but one that I am glad I am on with Mike. And Strela. Now get out here to visit and see for yourself!
Wednesday, July 14, 2010
It's a start.
Six months ago today, Mike and I departed for Praia, Cape Verde and our first tour with the Foreign Service.
Before departure, I promised a blog
Upon arrival, I promised a blog
When I returned from my first visit back in the US, I promised a blog
When we moved into our permanent house in May, I promised a blog
But now that we are reaching this six month milestone I will finally deliver.
I am typing to you from our beautiful home in Terra Branca, literally translated as White Earth which I find delightfully ironic. It is a more “up and coming” area of Praia, but our house is nestled in this quiet cul-de-sac amongst many families with young children, so we feel very safe here. Our neighbors are generous and kind, hosting block parties with delicious barbeque and following up by bringing us a Bolo de Chorizo (sausage cake). This is a bundt cake made with cornmeal and small bits of Portuguese chorizo. This may sound gross to many, but I have always preferred a french fry to a chocolate cake so it is my dream “bolo.”
As seen in the photos (link below), our home has a beautiful pool in the front yard that we use almost daily. The only one who doesn't seem to really care for it is Strela the dog. Our home has become the host to many children in Cape Verde as they swim to get away from the summer's heat, which I have to say is probably cooler than the East Coast this summer. Pool Fridays with Kelly and Peace Corps Jenny have relocated from the Embassy pool to the Ralles pool for easier access to food and drink.
We also have two guest bedrooms, which means we expect visitors. Those who have visited (Seth, Mike, Lily, Rachel, Susie, and Scott) can attest to the fact that not only is Cape Verde a gorgeous setting, not only is our house big and pool relaxing (sorry to Seth, who slept on the couch in our small temporary apartment), not only is the Strela beer flowing and the Strela dog jumping all over you for attention, but Mike and I love having guests and everyone is welcome!
Até já em Cabo Verde! See you soon in Cape Verde!
Follow our photos on Flickr as well as the ones posted here at: www.flickr.com/mralles
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