Mailing address?

Where do we live? Terra Branca.
Originally uploaded by mralles

The care packages for The Ralles Adventure abound in Cape Verde, most often sent by our mothers, followed by our close, personal friends at Amazon.com. We are privileged to have the use of the “diplomatic pouch” for our mailing needs and desires. This means that packages are sent to a Virginia mailing address and forwarded on to us for no additional cost. Typically we receive packages within two weeks to a month, barring any major issues. There are some size and weight limitations and contents can not contain liquids, batteries, aerosol, or plant matter (this one we learned the hard way by trying to ship our Obama Chia Pet). These limitations, however, are overshadowed by the feeling we get opening a box containing tortilla chips, Girl Scout cookies, or in my case adorable plastic dishes especially for Pool Fridays.

My mom and Aunt Jane were musing about ways to send us contraband items, like my hair conditioner, and asked if they could just send it to my Cape Verdean “mailing address.” I replied, “What mailing address?” It is true, we have no address. In fact, I have no idea what street I live on. Cape Verde does have a postal system, but there is no traditional mail carrier service. If you want mail, you have to go to the post office and rent a mailbox for an annual fee. Mail is very inconsistent, like other public services in the developing world. For example, our friend Kelly has not yet received her Christmas present from her family but her husband Ná has been sporting his Seattle soccer jersey since January. The gifts were either sent separately, or Kelly's parents like Ná more, the jury is out.

This concept of no address truly baffled my mom and aunt and so they asked, “If people want to come to your home, how do you tell them where you live?” Well, I tell them I live in Terra Branca, our neighborhood. At the circle (and they would just know which one I am referring to), I instruct them to turn up the hill where the sign points to Terra Branca, then make a right at the pink building and the first left at the building with blue trim. Stay to the right and I live in the house with the green door. Hilarious aside: As I was typing the cable people called and needed directions to the house, which I communicated in my poor Kriolu, and guess what? Even they could find me.

Another question was from Aunt Jane, “So if you were going to call a taxi, what would you tell them?” Well, I have only called a taxi one time since living in our new house, to go to the airport when Rachel Sher and I caught our early flight to Sal, another island. Again, in my terrible Kriolu, I described where I lived. The cab driver, Pepa, was very excited because he too lives in Terra Branca. He wanted to be sure he knew where I was so came over on foot that very evening, knocked on the door, and enthusiastically said he would be at that very spot the next morning at 4:30 am.

I guess I have learned two things from writing this blog post: 1. Street names, largely unimportant. But maybe that is because this city is about the size of my college campus. 2. My terrible Kriolu is not that terrible if people seem to find me just fine.

When you all come visit, we will make the 11 minute trip to the airport and will not force you to find your way around a town void of street names. See you soon!

Ka tem luz? Tem luz!

The Blue Beauty
Originally uploaded by mralles

Typical little Saturday. Up early with the dog, sadly with Strela there is no more sleeping in for us. Short little walk around the block to get Strela to “do her business,” thanks for the line, Paul and Bekah. A quick stop at the new grocery store in the neighborhood that is located just steps away from our house, a fantastic and life changing addition, still not one-stop shopping but MUCH more convenient. Walk out of there with $10 worth of LOX, lox you say? I know! Smoked salmon is a new arrival on the shelf this week. Mike cleans the pool for a possible Saturday swim, our empregada only works 5 days a week, people. And I start up the Ralles Family Diner for breakfast, no breakfast joints here as we would think of them and the main dish is Cachupa, typical Cape Verdean bean and meat stew that is refried and served with a fried egg and sausage, a delicious option but this lack of variety has us cooking up a storm on Saturday and Sunday mornings. After attempting to poach eggs, with total and utter failure, we dine on a delicious alternative to Eggs Benedict, fresh rolls layered with cream cheese, the smoked salmon, and scrambled eggs. When I found out how to make Hollandaise sauce, I decided against using even more eggs and butter, thus reinforcing why I would much rather dine out for breakfast in oblivion.

Now Mike has headed off to get some work done on the Jeep, Strela is napping on the cold tile floor, and two cups of coffee later, I am feeling even more chatty than normal.

A milestone event did occur this week. We got a generator! Power in Cape Verde is generated using diesel fuel: inefficient, über expensive, environmentally unfriendly...and completely unreliable. In fact, I think Mike's only phrase in Kriolu is, “Ka tem luz,” meaning “don't have lights” or as we would say, the power is out. Living in our temporary apartment, we did not have an alternative power source and it was not unusual for the power to go out about two to three times a week for as little an hour or up to 6-8 hours at a time. One of the most enticing parts of moving to our “permanent” home was that the Embassy provides all residences with a generator. After two months of living here without one, and continued power outages, this week the promise was fulfilled and the generator was installed. It must be a man thing, but Mike is drooling over this generator and its engine. As a woman, I find the new blue and white generator to be...cute? See Flickr photos of the new addition to our family!

I have to say, the concept of electricity being generated somewhere far away and traveling to my home still eludes me. I guess the American in me may always take this somewhat for granted. However, living here has definitely provided a fresh perspective and appreciation, especially when you drive through the “fora” or interior and come the realization that electricity has not even made its way there yet.

Bottom line: Mom and Dad, we certainly do not “have shares in public service” so thank you for all of your lessons on conserving electricity.

Want to visit a developing country, but live with the amenities of the United States? Visit us and our cute generator in Cape Verde!

Social life- socialites?

When we found out we were moving to a rock in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean last February, Mike and I savored all of our time in DC and beyond to be with friends and family as much as possible. We would often say to each other, “We should go out tonight, because next year, it is just going to be us on a desert island!” My sister told us we were crazy to think that we wouldn't make any friends or have things to do. If you ask her when the last time she and I were able to track down a time to chat, she would say she told me so.

So what are we up to? Well, when we are not dining with the Mayor of the second biggest city on the Island with our Ambassador, we may be having the Ambassador from Luxembourg and his family over for a morning swim and Bloody Mary's. We have been seen at the Russian Embassy for a cocktail party, elbow to elbow with the Russian Ambassador as well as many officials from the Cape Verdean government. When Mike comes home from work and I ask about his day, he mentions his meetings with the First Lady of Cape Verde or the owner of the private (and only) bus service, rumored to be the wealthiest man in the country. Then we sit down in front of the television to watch the news in which Mike will inevitably make an appearance in about once a week. Click on the link below to view a clip where he was interviewed and did the whole thing off the cuff in Portuguese...well done!

http://rtc.cv/tcv/index.php?paginas=13&id_cod=2962

One of our favorite Cape Verde evenings was hosted by a couple from the Netherlands, Franz and Hanneke (pronounced Hannukah :)). He is the #2 at the United Nations in Cape Verde and they live in a ultra-modern chic home right on the ocean with a gorgeous indoor/outdoor open floor plan. We entered to a beautiful buffet of gourmet cheeses, vegetables, and appetizers that I did not know could exist here. A local Spanish restauranteur was barbequing different meats and vegetables for tapas. Besides eating, drinking, and enjoying the view into oblivion, the evening was set up for Franz and Hanneke's friends who are musicians visiting from Holland. Throughout the night they played beautiful European classical music on the flute and piano. Franz and Hanneke also invited a famous Cape Verdean singer and other local musicians to share Cape Verdean music accompanied by guitar. The Foreign Minister of Cape Verde was there, the CEO of the largest telecom company was in attendance, as well as the Resident Director of the United Nations. We began to wonder how we got this invite!

I would not say that we are important by any means, but we can see how it is easy to feel that way in such a small place. No matter what, some of the best parts of the first six months have been meeting people who have converged, here in Cape Verde of all places, from all over the world, and sharing this experience with them. To date we have friends from Belgium, Italy, Portugal, Nigeria, Spain, France, Mexico, Sweden, Japan, Poland, Holland, Luxembourg, Australia, and England, just to mention the ones that come to mind at the moment.

We have also been fortunate to forge wonderful friendships with local Cape Verdeans, particularly the ones who work at the Embassy, who have opened up their homes to us. In February we were invited to the mountains for Mike's colleague Maria's birthday party that also featured fabulous food and music. One Friday night, we spent the evening eating a home-cooked Portuguese meal and playing Wii with Andrade and his family. And this past Saturday we went to the Fora, or interior, for a pig roast at Filomeno's family's home with a large group of Embassy folk. Again the day would not be complete without the famous food and music duo. 

Mike would like me to specifically point out that just because we are busy here and enjoying ourselves doesn't mean that we miss everyone at home every day. So please come visit and keep in touch!

Same, same, but different.

When I (Rachel) went back to the United States for a short visit in April, I found myself loving certain things about America that were absent in Cape Verde. Of course friends and family topped the list, but I was thinking more along the lines of...

• 
  
  My Blackberry. I am not an investment banker or lawyer who needs to be tied to my job with a Blackberry, but life is so easy when you can get and respond to emails anywhere you want.  Of course I hate to admit that checking Facebook was as high on my list as chatting with friends through Blackberry Messenger. Make fun of me, but I love it.
• 
  
  Chipotle. Not a week goes by where Mike and I do not long for Chipotle. We are not picky about what we would get there, we just want Chipotle. All. The. Time.  That or any meal that is "fast casual."
• 
  
  Stores. I alao hate to admit that much of my time in America was spent shopping. While my mom and I enjoyed shopping to be sure that I am the most fashionable person in Cape Verde, I also found myself making several trips to Target, Costco, and now I have added Petco to the list. There is absolutely nothing even close in Praia.
• 
  
  English. I think it goes without saying that I would much rather speak English any day.
• 
  
  Television. Keeping up to date on shows was not only something I would do, but considering we had two TiVos in U.S. I think I can fairly say that Mike misses TV as well. Then again, I think we miss our nightly ritual of Jeopardy and the News Hour most, but admitting that just makes me a complete nerd.

Upon return to Cape Verde in early May, much to my surprise, I found there were many things I liked about living here.  Our new friends here of course topped that list, but I was thinking more along the lines of...

• 
  
  No Blackberry. I barely use my cell phone at all. Not to mention I have to recharge it with credit (saldo) once every couple weeks, which means there is many a day where I have no saldo and can't make a phone call or text worth anything. Do I even notice it is missing? Not at all. Liberating.
• 
  
  No Chipotle or fast casual. Mike and I eat fresh, healthy meals each and every day.  Many more cooked by me everyday!  While at restaurants it may take us an hour to get our food, it is a comfort to know that much of the food is “organic” without preservatives and chemicals. We fill up on fish, meats, rice, and vegetables. The only problem is, there remains a presence of french fries and pizza, which means I have not lost a pound.
• 
  
  No stores means no errands! With the exception of grocery shopping (which as I have mentioned can take me all day), Mike and I do not find ourselves running about on weekends to get all the errands at Costco and Target done so we would be set for the week. Nothing to buy, means time spent lounging at the pool or beach. And don't worry we still spend plenty of money trying to get anything we want online.
• 
  
  Kriolu. The language of Cape Verde. Wish I could say I liked it more, but every day gets a little better. I can certainly navigate my daily life which is an improvement.
• 
  
  Television. Well, I am still a TV junkie. In fact during the World Cup, we had 2 TVs in our living room, as Cape Verdean cable only works on Cape Verdean TVs, of which our brand new beautiful TV (Thanks, Meri and Ted!) is not. I actually began to like soccer, just a little. Mike and I have recently found ourselves CRAZY about Mad Men and I have been entertaining myself with the first season of Friends (not that funny) and old Sex and the City seasons (still hilarious). So I guess TV is something I will continue to like all over the world.

Bottom line. Turns out the things I love most about America are things I appreciate most about our different life here.  Every day is certainly an adventure, but one that I am glad I am on with Mike.  And Strela. Now get out here to visit and see for yourself!

It's a start.

Six months ago today, Mike and I departed for Praia, Cape Verde and our first tour with the Foreign Service.

Before departure, I promised a blog

Upon arrival, I promised a blog

When I returned from my first visit back in the US, I promised a blog

When we moved into our permanent house in May, I promised a blog

But now that we are reaching this six month milestone I will finally deliver.

I am typing to you from our beautiful home in Terra Branca, literally translated as White Earth which I find delightfully ironic. It is a more “up and coming” area of Praia, but our house is nestled in this quiet cul-de-sac amongst many families with young children, so we feel very safe here. Our neighbors are generous and kind, hosting block parties with delicious barbeque and following up by bringing us a Bolo de Chorizo (sausage cake). This is a bundt cake made with cornmeal and small bits of Portuguese chorizo. This may sound gross to many, but I have always preferred a french fry to a chocolate cake so it is my dream “bolo.”

As seen in the photos (link below), our home has a beautiful pool in the front yard that we use almost daily. The only one who doesn't seem to really care for it is Strela the dog. Our home has become the host to many children in Cape Verde as they swim to get away from the summer's heat, which I have to say is probably cooler than the East Coast this summer. Pool Fridays with Kelly and Peace Corps Jenny have relocated from the Embassy pool to the Ralles pool for easier access to food and drink.

We also have two guest bedrooms, which means we expect visitors. Those who have visited (Seth, Mike, Lily, Rachel, Susie, and Scott) can attest to the fact that not only is Cape Verde a gorgeous setting, not only is our house big and pool relaxing (sorry to Seth, who slept on the couch in our small temporary apartment), not only is the Strela beer flowing and the Strela dog jumping all over you for attention, but Mike and I love having guests and everyone is welcome!

Até já em Cabo Verde! See you soon in Cape Verde!

Follow our photos on Flickr as well as the ones posted here at: www.flickr.com/mralles