Thursday, November 18, 2010

Farewell to the Stolens- Fora Style

Those of you who have been reading this blog for a while probably gathered that our two closest friends in Praia are Kelly and Ná Furtado. What you may not know is that after they were married this past May they decided to start their marriage and life together in America. Boo for us. Big time.

But instead of dwelling on how they abandoned us, I'll focus on our fantastic weekend in Ná's hometown of Pedra Badejo, about 40 minutes from Praia in the mountains along the coast. Referred to as the “fora” because it is in the interior of the island, this town maintains a much more traditional way of life than in Praia.

This was not our first visit to Pedra Badejo, and Ná's family welcomed us back with open arms. We started at Grandma's house where Ná grew up. The family was busy cooking katxupa, which is a delicious stew of beans, fresh corn, various meats and vegetables. Somehow we did not get the message that this katxupa was for us, so we set off to eat a HUGE and delicious lunch of other Cape Verdean specialities like feijoada (another bean stew, but somehow completely different than katxupa), grilled fish, chicken, and of course rice and french fries. Then to aid digestion we happily took a long walk around the small town. It's long because Ná is like the mayor having to stop and shake hands with and talk to everyone he knows, which is everyone in town. Stopping back by Grandma's house on the way out of town, our stomaches still COMPLETLEY stuffed from lunch, we chowed down on the fresh and delicious katxupa anyway. I mean, we didn't want to be rude. The guys also indulged in a little grogue, the local liquor made from sugar cane.

After a night out for the guys and night in for the ladies, we awoke early at our great hotel to panoramic views of the sea and a black sand beach. After breakfast we headed out with Ná's Uncle and five brothers to a coconut grove, which was a highlight for all of us. It was strikingly beautiful and GREEN after all the rain this summer. Ná's brothers, all of whom are almost as handsome and nice as Ná, led us into this orchard where one promptly climbed up a fresh palm tree knocking out many coconuts. Then they took turns chopping open the coconuts with a machete and we each enjoyed the fresh coconut water and coconut flesh out amongst the trees.

But do you know who loves the fora the most? Strela! She got to eat and drink whatever she wanted and roamed around free with all new smells. She was in HEAVEN.

*Footnote: Furtado translates directly to the word “stolen” from Portuguese and Kriolu so we often refer to Kelly and Ná as the “Stolens.”

History in the Making?


AKON!
Originally uploaded by mralles
My TACV flight back from Boston reminded me of what was in store for me the weekend I returned home. Referred to as “History in the Making,” on October 30th Akon, a Senegalese pop-star famous in the States, was coming to do a concert. Half of his entourage including his brother was on my airplane and I have to say all the big headphones, encrusted Rolexes and Louis Vuitton luggage did give me pause as people do not normally roll like that in Cape Verde.

Mike had secured us and our “team” of Kelly and Ná, Carrie and Derek VIP tickets from the Embassy. So we got all “buzz off” (Cape Verdean Kriolu for the Yiddish “faputzed” or “all dressed up”) took a few shots and headed out on Saturday night for the main event. Now I didn't really think I knew who Akon was or as Derek puts it, “everyone's favorite monotone popstar.” but turns out I knew almost every song and all the words that go along with them. Hm, I guess I have to thank Hot 99.5 in Washington, DC for that?

In this blog, I can not do two things justice: 1. What a big deal this was for Cape Verdeans & 2. How much freaking fun we had.

Rumor on the street was that this concert was the biggest thing that has happened in Cape Verde SINCE INDEPENDENCE. Yes, that is right, since Cape Verde won a war, freeing themselves of Portuguese rule and establishing an independent nation. That and Akon are the two biggest things that have happened here since 1975. For how much fun was had, I will have to refer you to our pictures. We were drinking warm beer and jumping up and down dancing like teenagers. See, I told you I couldn't do it justice.

The highlight of Akon's set, can you call it that especially if he was lip-syncing the whole time? Anyway the highlight of his set was the song, Right Now (Na, Na, Na), that we dedicated to Ná, while singing on the top of our lungs.



Friday, November 12, 2010

By now, EVERYONE has heard of Cape Verde.

Our whirlwind tour of the USA is complete and we are back in Praia. I made a lot of promises to update the blog when I returned so I am happy to report that I am back. We had a fantastic trip Stateside and saw a whole lot of our very large country (any country is large after living in Cape Verde). In one month, I was in Florida, NJ, NY, DC, Arizona, and Minnesota! Since you all do not read the blog to hear of our adventures in America, I will not revisit the highlights, of which there were way too many to count.

At one point Mike and I realized we were actually visiting on official business from the Cape Verde Department of Tourism. Everyone wanted to know when they could come visit that I should have made up brochures. Our personal presentations must have been enticing enough, because we did score a few new visitors for the coming months, and have had some interest from past visitors on a second trip. Check out our revised visitor schedule- you know you want your name up there!

Mike and I thought that on that note, you should all know that Cape Verde has been in the news lately as quite the prestigious destination. Many of you have asked what we would do when you get here. Well, until I have my brochure ready, these articles can whet your appetite.

First, Cape Verde scored number THREE in Lonely Planet's top 10 destinations to visit in 2011. Who knew?! Having been to #1 (and not having any idea why you would go there unless you are a huge fan of Cheers, like Mike) and #2 (which maybe you are saving until we- fingers crossed- end up there some day?), I can tell you starting at #3 is not such a bad idea. This article from The Independent also shows off some of the diversity of the different islands and is available as reading material in our guest room as well.

Our American friends that stayed with Strela during our jaunt in the States (and did a phenomenal job training her as well, phew) named our home the Ralles Resort and Spa. So please let me know when you want to book your reservation!

All the best from Praia and more of our adventures to come!